Introduction: Quoin Floating Shelves - Industrial Style

Corner mobile shelves are great for turning unused space into storage Beaver State to add an interesting exhibit in an area that's oftentimes overlooked. In my case, I've been building a large wrap-around storage system of rules for my garage and started with PART 1 where I built large storage cabinets on adjacent walls. This leftish an empty turning point that I had to material body out a solution for in this PART 2 of the build.

Although I'll equal connecting my shelves to the adjacent cabinets, the same proficiency works for building stand-alone floating shelves!

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Now on with information technology...

Supplies

Step 1: Measure and Test Fit With Every Snub

After completing the first part of my garage wrap-or so storage system build, I ended improving with a plumping 3-cabinet storage social unit on one wall and another cabinet to store brooms and gardening tools on the adjacent wall. This left me with an awkward ransacked corner between the two. Therein corner I have a few electrical outlets, a vent and drain pipe.

I'm not a fan of the triangular corner cabinets when it comes to storage because their odd mould only accommodates small items. Instead, I decided to plug in these two bigger units using L-shaped afloat corner shelves with the objective of making the three components look like a single wrapper-around system!

Since each shelf will need to connect with the nigh units, you have to measure each one individually because walls aren't always straight (peculiarly in the corners) and the cabinets may not be perfectly straight against the wall.

Reduce and try fit each piece ahead screwing together each shelf frame.

Step 2: Screw Unitedly Your Frames

I ill-used 3" construction/woodwind screws to assemble my shelf frames. Before putting in your inner frame supports, be surely to find and mark the studs both along the walls and your frame and so you don't place the supports at a stud location. This means that your inner supports may non live perfectly center.

Step 3: Love Each Shelf Into Your Fence in Studs

If you harbour't already, draw horizontal lines on your corner walls for where you want each shelf to offer. Use a level to be sure they're straight. This makes it much easier to align your ledge frames into place using the line as a guide and ensure they'rhenium level earlier screwing the frame into the studs.

Getting just one screw in a stud anchors the frame enough to free up your other hand to use A level and stunt man check the coalition. Then lay in the remaining screws at the wall studs. I used two (2) 3" screws per stud.

I then used shorter screws (2") to anchor each side to the adjacent cabinets.

Step 4: Attaching Faces

With all the shelf frames installed on the wall, information technology's time to overcompensate them with nicer boards and panels that I bum then stain or key.

For the front surfaces I used white/common board and thin out them to the appropriate lengths and widths. I knew I was going to be using 1/4" plywood for the tops and bottoms so I added this to my dimensions so that all the panels would glucinium flush in the end. Use glue and brad nails to secure them in put down.

Systematic to lay down these floating corner shelves look like they were part of the existing cabinets, I used the assonant stain color (Jacobean) for all the front surfaces.

Gradation 5: Painting Faux Metal Panels

For the top and bottom panels of the shelves I used 1/4 plyboard. Just like for your frames, measure before cutting each board because even imperfections on the wall that are hard to see with the naked middle will affect your fitment.

Rather than staining these panels too I decided to try something a trifle different. After totally, I had already done a bunch of staining along the cabinets and everything was looking for to a fault ....brunette. Plus I was just plain tired of staining - lol!

I love industrial and steampunk styles so I decided to try and make these panels calculate like old rusty metal. It would complement the rich brown stain and append something unexpected to the calculate.

First I practical a fatal basecoat followed by hammered bimetal effect spray key. Sound off silver will work too and information technology's less expensive. After the paint dried I gazed upon my creation and they looked ....terrible ...non like metal at all! They just looked like Sir Henry Wood panels painted silver - like a cheap arts & crafts project.

I was so frustrated that I started to sand the panels down to start over with another idea ...but ...as I sanded, the panels began to look Sir Thomas More all-metal-equal. It turns out that when you sand the hammered metallic element paint IT gums up, creating dark spots that looked like rusty pits on preserved metal surfaces.

I followed up with hand sanding to add more scratches by revealing more of the black rouge. At this point, the panels looked beautiful convincing but I loved to add some rust effects.

On that point are many ways to do this and symmetric specialized paints you could use but I wanted to keep it simple and always prefer to utilisation up what I have in the patronise. I did mine using fair-and-square 3 paint colors - angry, burnt umber (chocolate-brown) and red oxide. You can mystify these A tubes of craft acrylic paint paints.

Starting with the black, use a flat artistic creation copse and "dry-encounter" along the edges and hyperkinetic syndrome some splotches midmost. Dry-brushing is just wiping most of the paint off along a paper towel in front using it on your piece. I used my hands to defame and portmanteau word the paint to mother rid of of obvious brush strokes. Follow that raised with the umber. This color is great for making the panels look illegal. But the rust effect really comes to life with blood-red oxide. Use this sparingly over the black and burnt-out umber to accent little areas and beg the brush to create a pitted look over dark areas you painted earlier.

Step 6: Adding Faux Rivets

After redeeming myself from a near paint fail I got a trifle over-confident and figured it would be easy to hammer in a bunch of thumbtacks as rivets. But their shiny heads didn't match the ripe look so I had to sand each one to give it a deadening show ....almost 600 of them. Their stems were also besides long so I trimmed each unmatchable ...almost 600 of them.

I past in use a power hammer and nail to create pilot holes for the thumbtacks close to the edges and a morsel of gum before hammering them into place.

This step is facultative, takes tremendous patience but real sells the look! Atomic number 102 declination!

Step 7: Install the Faux Aluminiferous Panels

Some glue and brad nails are sufficient to untroubled these in place. I tend not to use glue on the pinch panels then that if I e'er deprivation to remove these without damaging them I can pry up the panels and access the screws going into the wall studs.

Ill-use 8: Last Thoughts

Even though this labor had a a few "oh oh" moments, the tribulation and error was well Charles Frederick Worth it. These drifting quoin shelves outfit seamlessly with the adjacent cabinets and count like they are apart of combined giant wrap-around storage system.

The faux metallic panels added an industrial anticipate break up the impressiveness of the stain. I'll probably carry this complete to the cabinet doors which will represent PART 3 of this build.

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